Works great for me for garage door automation. I love how it has a built-in function to turn off a switch after a certain amount of time after it was turned on.. No more relying on my controller and network latency to try to nail a perfect 5-second delay to toggle it -- now it's bang on every time. For simplicity (and so I wouldn't have to co-locate with the garage motor) I wired a relay to a battery-operated remote (two wires soldered to the button's pads on the PCB). Works like a charm: the controller turns on the relay and the box turns it off again after 5 seconds automatically. I'm about 6-months in and haven't had a misfire yet.

Works with UD EISY/Polisy and ZMatter.Update to latest firmware 1.20 at time of this article.After setting parameter 2/3 to 10 for example (dry contact), make sure when including again after exclude that you use S2 with PIN because extra sensor nodes did not appear with just S0. In this example, setting parameter 10/11 to 0 isolates the inputs from the relays.

Now I have a smart HRV controlled by relative humidity in the house.

Brand new unit shipped from Amazon with a really old firmware installed. Be sure to check current firmware and upgrade when receiving.Although documented to be compatible with Hubitat with Firmware 2.2.6 or higher, this is not entirely true. Some inputs modes are not supported/bugged by Hubitat (Ex dry contact) . Also be sure to update the firmware to the latest one published.At the end, with some workaround, managed to get it working and was able to read the two inputs statuses and command the output relays.

This thing just works! Has many purposes and very configurable. I use it to Automate my garage door.

Bought this unit as independent Inputs and Relays for 24 VAC HVAC sensing/control.Configuring the inputs for visibility in Home Assistant through Z-Wave integration is much too complex and requires setting the unit up, changing the input type. For the Input to appear, unit has to be Excluded and Re-Paired?!?!?After setting it up and creating automations, the ZEN17 operated fine for a month and then suddenly stopped updating. Tried multiple things (reconfiguring, power cycle, firmware update) and unit had to be Exluding and Re-Paired to recover the Input statuses (relay control was still ok, proving proper communication).Status were ok after Re-Pairing so issue was with the unit stopping to update input statuses. All broken automations needed to be fixed.In a Nutshell, setting up Input reporting is overly complex to configure with questionable reliability.

Well made and easy to setup

All and all, I think this product is built well and works the way I want it to.However, the process to get a firmware update is downright painful. You need to send an email to the company asking for the firmware. Then provide an order number and proof you actually purchased it (picture of receipt/screen grab from amazon). Then they will send you the firmware file.The firmware number screen is also confusing, version 1.2 is actually newer than version 1.4 (some kind of mix-up should actually be reported as 1.04).A process that should have taken 20 mins tops ended up over 12 hours. Their excuse for such a painful process is "copyright and IP infringement" for making the firmware files available.For the love of God, make the firmware file available, your excuse is just that an excuse.

I picked up two of these for operating 3 garage doors (each will handle up to 2) and also to extend my Z-Wave network range. Out of the box this was very easy to set up in Home Assistant. I did have to check the included documentation to get it into Z-Wave pairing mode, but after that it paired right away with Home Assistant through the closest Z-Wave Repeater and populated device information and configuration. The configuration has a lot of options but it's pretty clear and simple if you are familiar with switching and basic residential and low voltage electric. If you are not, get some help before you mess with anything like this and of course unplug/de-energize electric things before you mess with them.I have S1 set up as momentary, meaning it looks for a single button press or switch closure, which is what you get when you click the button on the garage wall. The R1 NO Output was linked to S1 by default, meaning when you click the garage button, it closes S1 momentarily, telling the relay to close R1 momentarily, actuating the garage door. This meets my "keep wife happy" standard where things need to work when you push the button even if something quit working with the automation. I could completely shut down all other devices and home assistant and this would still let the garage door work like normal. Parameter 10 lets you decouple this. Say, for example, if you wanted to set up security conditions, like keep the door from opening unless certain people are home, or time of day or something. There are a lot of other options as well, I added snips in the photos.With HA and Ecolink Tilt Sensors (B00HGVJRX2) on the garage doors it was very easy to set up door status monitoring, notification, and buttons in the HA front end. I was able to set up notifications based on people presence, duration left open, and time of day that prompt a button press to close the door. For example, the last person to leave a home zone with a garage door left open gets notified. If the door is not closed within x time, everyone gets notified.

I have 9 separate amplifiers for my home theater setup. My processor has 3 12v outputs and is separated from the rear amplifiers by almost 20 feet.I have 5 20 amp circuits for all of the amps. I have to be careful or I get ground loops between the equipment.This relay let me trigger all 9 amps via my existing smart home software and a combination of Emotiva ET-3 trigger expanders (hooked up to smart switches). The ET-3s are not directly hooked to the processor - instead, they are hooked to smart switches that are turned on/off based on the relay state.I use HomeSeer as my home automation software. I had to change the following on the ZEN17 for this to work -Parameter 2 - set to 7Parameter 10 - set to 0I then used (unable to re-name) window/door contact open/closed as my on/off trigger. I'm able to turn on all 9 amps (with a delay set in Homeseer, because my lights dim otherwise) when the processor is turned on.I've been using this setup for a few days and 0 issues so far.

I have this currently configured to function as a Garage Door opener that's connected to my Home Assistant server using ZWaveJS2MQTT. After configuring the device to function as a Garage Door and repairing it to my Z-Wave network, it has worked great and is much more dependable than my previous setup... a Raspberry Pi and GPIO relay.The only mild issue I didn't like was having to e-mail them to request the link to the firmware file. They were quick to respond and provided the link to the firmware file. But to do this and require people to prove they purchased it by providing your Amazon order number all felt very unnecessary and paranoid. I can only assume this is to help them track who has attempted a firmware update. That way they can protect themselves from false warranty claims due to users bricking their devices because of a failed firmware update but passing it off as a manufacturing issue. Personally, I would have preferred a direct link to download the file without having to e-mail them to request it.Given that, the documentation on their website is superb and the packaging this came in was excellent.

My plan to use this device was by replacing an older wifi Garage door opener with something that I could control locally and would be more secure than wifi.I had seen several reviewers who had used this device and it's older brother the Zen16 as garage door relays, and figured I'd try it out. I had previously installed the Zen16 to provide smart control of my gas fireplace. I'm using HomeAssistant with ZWaveJS UI integration and a HomeSeer SmartStick+ G3 Z-Wave Plus (V2) USB Stick as the coordinator.I was replacing an Meross Wifi Garage Door opener, which was very easy to setup, but when I had some issues with my wifi (AP failure), it began to flake out along with many of my other wifi smart devices. I began a mission to replace what I could easily with locally controlled devices (zigbee, zwave and matter/thread). To start, I reused most of the wiring left behind by the Meross unit, which included clipping the harness to connect the magnetic reed switch used to sense door open/close. After stripping those wires, I connected them to the S1 and C terminals. It's doesn't matter which wire is connected to which terminal.IMPORTANT NOTE: BEFORE WIRING AND MOUNTING THIS THING, MAKE SURE YOU TAKE A PICTURE OF THE QR CODE ON THE "BOTTOM" OF THE UNIT. YOU WILL LIKELY NEED THIS OR THE CODE ON IT LATER.On the relay side, as with most garage door openers, my Chamberlain Liftmaster Pro is a Normally Open (NO) circuit connected to a momentary switch wall button. As with my prior smart opener, you can add leads onto the existing button contacts on the garage door opener terminals. These leads connect to the NO and C terminals on the Relay. It shouldn't matter which order the wires are connected, but typically it's run with Red/White bell wire (in the US). Pay attention to which terminal is which and make sure the common wire is connected to the C terminal on the relay and the hot is connected to the NO terminal.If you have dual doors with separate openers, you would wire in the other "door sensor" and "door opener wires" the same way on S2 and R2 blocks.The relay runs off a standard 5v/1a charge and comes with a USB-A to USB-C cable. It's too bad a USB power adapter isn't included in the box, but in the interest of minimizing e-waste, it makes sense. I can't think of a situation where someone who is willing to use a device like this wouldn't have a dozen extra 1a chargers in a drawer somewhere. It can also be powered by a 12/24v source on the terminal leads, but it's unlikely that would be anywhere near a garage door, so for this application...USB it is.Once the relay has power, it's easy enough to add to the coordinator of choice. You enable INCLUSION MODE on your coordinator software and then tap the single button on the relay 3 times. At first, I didn't like the pairing mode button trigger, rather than the more normal "hold it down for 3-5 seconds). But when I had issues trying to configure the relay properly, I started to see the wisdom of it. You don't have to worry about guessing how much is 3 seconds vs 5 vs 10 seconds. You tap the button 3x and it's instantly recognized, every time. Same way for EXCLUDING the device, which we'll get to in a minute.Once you have the device recognize, you need to select the correct values for each parameter, depending on the application. For a garage door opener, you will change Parameter 2 ("S1 Terminal: Input Type") to Value 11 ("Garage Door Mode...:"). For dual door applications select the same for Parameter 3.VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: AFTER CHANGING P2 AND/OR P3 TO ANY SETTING 4-11, YOU HAVE TO REMOVE/EXCLUDE THE RELAY AND INCLUDE IT AGAIN. This will enable binary sensors for the switch terminals to provide the "open/close" status that will be needed for proper integration.Finally, Parameter 10/11 will need to be set to DISABLED (or OFF) if using a wired (reed) switch as an open/close sensor. If not, once contact is made with door sensor, it will activate the relay. ***This is what screwed me up resulting in my contacting support. I misread the wording on this Parameter and didn't disable it***I've included pictures of my config from the ZWaveJS UI integration in HomeAssistant. You can also view the settings in ZWaveJS directly under the "Configuration V4 section). A different integration or smart hub may look slightly different, but the parameters/values should still report the same.I contacted support when I couldn't figure it out. That was Sunday afternoon. By Sunday evening I had a reply. After requesting/sharing that information, I had 3 more exchanges with the support team, including twice in one day. They pointed out my configuration error and I had it fixed that night.When setting up a user-friendly "button" in HomeAssistant, you'll want to use a "Cover Template" which will act as a button to trigger the relay, but also change the icon to reflect the status of the door (open/close). I've attached my yaml code here. This will need to be entered into the configuration.yaml file in HomeAssistant. If you don't know how to do that, there are many videos out there to show you the ropes.Now the TL;DR Pro's Cons:PRO's:* Well Built, no lose parts inside, terminals blocks are solid, won't strip* A+ support, rapid reply 24/7* S2 Security supported, great for secure applications (like entry control)* Great signal strength* Fast switching on the relay.Cons:* Doesn't come with a USB power adapter* Instructions are "adequate" but a little messy to read. Have to go online to get proper instructions on setting up as garage door opener.In summary, very happy with my purchase and next-level support from the mfg. I will buy from them again!

I purchased this to turn my ‘dumb’ garage door opener into a smart garage door opener and integrate it into my smart home. Installation was extremely simple and adding the device via Z-wave was very easy and I have not lost signal since installation (~5 months). The instructions were very clear and install took no time at all. I would definitely purchase for future garage doors.